A Lazy Day in Bydgoszcz

After yesterday's excursion, we decide that Chelmno is not going to happen. For the first time, we take the #71 bus into town, miss our stop, and walk to the train station. Buying tickets to Poznań is simple (42 z ł each), and since our bus tickets our good for an hour, we take the tram to the edge of the old town. Of course, May 1 is a national holiday (Labour Day) and everything is closed. That is, until we hit the touristy area around the Stary Rynek (old market). A small convenience store is open so we get some smoked salmon (5.5 zł) and a couple of baps (1.6 zł) for a small picnic lunch. We're going to miss all this excellent bread when we get home.

The tourist office explains the water trams to us and we're off to the dock. There are two: one goes upstream, through a lock and back in about an hour; the other downstream and back in about 80 minutes. We opt for the first as it will be more interesting. Although we've both seen many canal locks, this is the first time we've ever been through one. I love the elegant simplicity or the centuries-old engineering. The boat is solar-powered and other than the occasional use of the bow thrusters, completely silent.

Canal Lock

 It's time for some piwo and nearby is a local brewery with a beer garden. They serve a decent ale, nicely bitter for 9 zł and although it's cool by the canal, the setting is perfect. In the park, all the locals are playing with their kids and enjoying the sunny weather. We dally too long and cannot get on the boat for the downstream trip as it is packed out.

The Local Brew Pub

Instead, we opt for an early dinner at the 200-year old. Karczma Młyńska, or Miller's Tavern. Clarisse has breakfast - fried eggs, fried potatoes, and bacon but skips the buttermilk for a different local brew. I have some potato pancakes with pork and gravy and a glass of wine. The bill is only 55 zł and since the service was excellent, we leave a 10 zł tip.

The Miller's Tavern

Finding the bus home was a little tricky. We find the right street easily enough but didn't see the stop. So we walked until we found the bus stop but our bus is not on the list. I write the bus number that we want and ask a couple of kids. They have no English but after a minute of pointing, they show us where the stop is - walking us almost all the way there. When we thank them in Polish, they seemed very happy and walked back to their stop. Over and over, we have found the people here to very helpful and friendly. In spite of warnings to the contrary, we feel perfectly safe everywhere.